I used to have some of Enayla's skins at first (I loved those, but eventually grew tired of them). I've tried other defaults, but always get bored with them. I've had most of these replacements since somewhere around 2006-08, so I'm not sure how many of these are still up for download (I've got several backups just in case - I don't want to lose them!).
They look something like this - I think there's only a tiny bit of non-default face details like freckles and a natural lipstick added.
They're somewhere on the scale of 'still a bit cartoonish' to 'semi-realistic' category. The skins have changed a few times, but I've used the Ephemera ones for a very long while (2008-ish). I use some of Ephemera's skins (slight modification), some very old eyes by Helaene (slightly edited, I've had them almost since I started playing), eyebrows by Helaene/Serasims/corvidophile, and eyeliners by Bruno(?)/Kirsi. You just have to search around and maybe try out a few to find your favorites. It comes very much down to preference, and there's no perfect combo that fits everyone.